Where it goes through a free-mounted ratchet block and heads off towards the other side of the boat. The spinnaker sheet is 'continuous', and proceeds to got
through the ratchet block on the opposite side, to the back of the boat and forward again to the kite via the twinning system on the other side. Basically, it's all symmetrical. Note the side mounted
cleat, which can be used for stopping the slack in the sheet from pulling out of the boat and trailing in the water. Note also the protection on the thwart below the ratchet block (the ratchet block has
a tendency to flap about and injure the varnish).
The twinning line is also continuous and symmetrical, and crosses the boat going above the jib sheets. When spinnakering, the windward side gets pulled in and
cleated, the leeward side is uncleated so the slack is pulled through by the spinnaker sheet. There needs to be enough slack in the system that the leeward side twinner does not affect the leeward side
spinnaker sheet. In effect, you want a twinning line which is about 4ft longer than the width of your boat.
Note that the knot in the spinnaker sheet is often dispensed with in favour of having the thick outer layer of the tapered rope come to the same point.
Obviously this only works if the spinnaker sheet is made specifically with this in mind. In this case, the outer sheath has to be stitched very firmly to the inner at the point where the taper occurs,
and it is this bit that hits the bobble. It's more elegant, but your sheet is a little heavier and it puts a lot more strain on the stitching for the taper.
For some more shots of the kite, and the info on the pole, click here.